I Coast town limps back
2003-04-07 21:41
Korhogo - Seven months into Ivory Coast's war, the northern rebel-held city of Korhogo lives amid uncertainty and contradiction, with gnawing hunger despite adequate food stocks, lively markets but penniless consumers, and widespread fear despite rebel claims of security.
The dry, dusty provincial capital - one of the three hubs of a September 19 rebel uprising that has split the west African nation in half - is returning to normal, but many here are war-weary and uncertain of the future.
The Patriotic Movement of Ivory Coast (MPCI), the main rebel group holding the north of the country which recently joined a new unity government to try to end the war, has insisted things are looking up in Korhogo.
MPCI commander Massemba Kone, who holds the portfolio of the newly created ministry for war victims, displaced and exiles, said: "Life has resumed in Korhogo...When one sees busy markets it means one thing: trade. People are coming from far away to buy things."
Kone said many local enterprises including cotton and sugar factories had reopened, and that sugar was now being sent to the government-controlled south under a recent agreement.
But this only draws a partial picture of life in Korhogo.
Francois Sonan, who heads the operations of the World Food Programme (WFP) in Korhogo, said although cereals and vegetables were plentiful in the city's main market, there were often no buyers.
"Frequently, at the end of the day, the sellers go back with unsold vegetables which go to waste," he said. "Many people do not have liquidity and they are hungry."
Banks have been closed in Korhogo, as in other parts of the rebel-held north and centre, since the start of the uprising.
Some of those lucky enough to have made an arrangement with friends or relatives in the government-held south or overseas go to the neighbouring countries of Burkina Faso or Mali to collect cash.
Others can now go to the south to use banks but the journey is long, difficult and dotted with barricades, where travellers are subjected to rigorous questioning and often, they claim, demands for money in both rebel- and government-controlled zones.
Barbara Kone Suleiman, a Ghanaian shopkeeper selling sneakers, towels and T-shirts, said her business had plumetted by 70% since the crisis.
"I have not paid my rent for six months and my landlord understands," she said.
Although the markets are full of people, few actually buy things. Many just gather round talking or whiling away the time.
Prices of essentials rose but are now back to normal or even lower-than-normal prices. Petrol, however, is expensive although the price has fallen from an earlier high.
Schools closed after the war broke-out, but volunteer teachers have since started refresher courses.
Most people in Korhogo praise the rebels as a disciplined force. They say theft and looting took place at the start of the war but soon stopped.
The rebels regularly air warnings on a private local radio and television channel called RTP (Radio Television Pelefolo). One of the warnings carries the blunt message: "For all thieves who are caught, a bullet in the hand and one in the head."
Rebel official Alphonse Soro Tiorna said the MPCI allows nightclubs and bars to operate only once every few days in Korhogo - in sharp contrast to the rebel headquarters of Bouake, further south, which now has a raucous and sometimes unruly nightlife.
"There have been cases of our boys getting drunk and opening fire over a petty argument. Sometimes it can lead to injuries. We want to avoid all that here."
Lamine, one of around 10 Lebanese businessmen who have remained in the town, said although neither he nor his compatriots had been raided, there were disturbing reports doing the rounds.
"One hears of theft and banditry apparently carried out even now and always at night. The raiders have guns and wear MPCI uniforms. The rebels say they are not their men but simply people wearing their uniforms."
An Ivorian, who asked not to be identified, said he knew someone who was recently robbed of a "CD player, video and cash" during such a raid, adding: "The rebels freed all the prisoners when they took the town. Even if it's not them, it's because of them." - Sapa-AFP
- SAPA