Fashion’s futuristic winter wardrobe

2011-03-04 09:47

Waterproof rubber coats, Plexiglas heels and metallic embroidery took Milan Fashion Week into futuristic territory as designers went bold in the wake of the global luxury ­rebound.

Catwalk bigs Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, and Roberto Cavalli reinvented 1970s and 1980s archives for women ­interested in changing their look without forsaking tradition.

High-end fashion house Botega Veneta’s creative director Thomas Maier said: “We wanted to push the boundaries, to experiment with technique and craftsmanship to an extreme degree.”

Maier used fuzzy woven wool, waxed leather and hand-painted python print for a minimalist, ­refined silhouette.

Waterproof coats in double-rubberised nubuk with cashmere ­detail and sweaters in spandex were the highlights of Anna ­Molinari’s Blumarine collection, which invited “chic women to ­embrace change”.

Where textures dared, some lines showed restraint, with trendsetter Miuccia Prada dressing schoolgirls.

Prada, planning to strut its stuff on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange this year, created mermaid-like dresses covered with oversized plastic petals.

Giorgio Armani mixed classic with new, proposing long skirts with a wide harmonic hem and trousers cut off at the ankle. His peep-toe shoes had shaped ­Plexiglas heels.

Designer Frida Giannini wanted a “dandy lady” for Gucci, with ­extra-wide trousers and pant skirts inspired by the 1970s.

Masculine versus feminine was the leitmotiv at Dolce & Gabbana, where slim-cut, tailored jackets were worn with lower-rise, ­calf-length pants in a tribute to the 1980s.

Going over similar territory, ­Ferragamo’s designer Massimiliano Giornetti showed masculine trenches with large shoulders and jackets in Prince of Wales and ­pinstripe patterns.

Metallic embroidery was key at Roberto Cavalli, who sculpted ­“armours of light” for his?collection.

“My woman for next winter could become the ideal host who accompanies us on a shuttle,” ­Cavalli said.

For the evening, crystals and ­embroidery – from Ferre to Versace – shone on Milan ­catwalks.

But the glitz sparked mixed reactions among fashion bloggers, with Bryan Boy remarking on Twitter that “the last thing they want to wear is a Swarovski-studded, ­beaded, embroidered cheong sam”.

Accessories included platform-free shoes with high heels, socks-like?boots?and?clutches?with?shoulder?straps.?–?Antonella?Cinacio / Reuters

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