Tingling tastebuds

2009-05-28 10:45

In the eighties, we were bombarded with advertising for Aromat, that sickly yellow, MSG loaded savoury food sprinkle.

We were encouraged not only to use the stuff, but to sprinkle it directly and liberally on our tongues, producing, the ad suggested, a pleasing "tch, tch" noise as it left the bottle.

Clearly the manufacturers have seen reason, and we haven't seen any such ads for a couple of decades now.

MSG is a food additive with a bad rap. Although FDA studies in the United States haven't found conclusive evidence that it's bad for you, they do acknowledge that it aggravates asthma and that some people are allergic to it.

I am asthmatic, and my father in law is allergic to the stuff, so in our family, we are particularly careful about avoiding foods containing MSG. It's no great loss for us. MSG doesn't taste of anything in particular; it just enhances existing flavours, in much the same way as salt does. So we use salt.

In this day and age, people are becoming more and more concerned about what they put in their bodies. FDA findings aside, people are reluctant to expose themselves to unnecessary chemicals. In light of this, food companies that care about their products and customers generally avoid including MSG.

Woolworths and Nandos are two noteworthy South African companies that have eliminated this additive from their products. Both are considered to be among our best loved brands, and produce food that is pretty universally accepted as a cut above the rest, so clearly the lack of MSG is doing them no harm.

Culinary trickery

Many restaurants, particularly Asian ones - because MSG is a common Asian food additive - clearly state that their food does not contain MSG for the peace of mind of their patrons.

Which is why I was so surprised, when I went to a Europa restaurant for lunch yesterday, to be served a side order of chips heavily coated in neon yellow powder.

My husband did a pinkie taste test, like an American TV cop sampling cocaine, and concluded that we had, in fact, been served a plate of MSG, along with a nice healthy side salad.

We called the manager over, and she was very sympathetic, but suggested that in future, we request "no Aromat" because the food preparation and presentation at the Europa chain is dictated by head office, and can't easily by changed by the branches.

I am surprised that a chain that claims to care about providing good food, made well resorts to the culinary trickery of MSG. It's a food additive that many people go out of their way to avoid - and a good marketing opportunity besides - so there's really no benefit to adding it to a meal.

But then, my brother-in-law noticed someone in his office kitchen covering their lunch with Aromat and commented in horror "but that's pure MSG"!

His colleague looked back at him, unconcerned. "What's MSG," he asked.

So, I guess that for all the people who read the fine print on labels and follow food controversy in the media, there are those who don't particularly care, as long as their tastebuds are tingling.

Georgina Guedes is a freelance journalist who loves to cook. She has an entire shelf in her kitchen devoted to flavour-enhancing spices - none of them contain MSG.

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