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David Moseley

Meandering in the city

2009-05-12 10:39

David Moseley

It's a great pity that our cities (or specifically, our city centres) aren't built for casual strolling.

We have vast, blunt shopping malls, but they leave little to the imagination and offer little joy to the inquisitive ambler. You walk around in numb circles, praying for a swift and merciless end.

Meandering to and from work through the city centre is probably the highlight of my day, though. And depending on what time I leave in the mornings and the evenings the sights change quite dramatically.

Early mornings bring with them lucid and innocent streets that, by evening, are normally honking angrily with traffic or oppressive with belligerent beggar children.

The start of a shaded day down Long Street comes with backpacking tourists poking their heads out of dozy backpacker's, apparently checking for the all clear before sleepily walking to the nearest Spar for a breakfast roll.

Bar cleaners sweep out the debris and slosh from the night before, while an infinitely more polite kind of beggar, before the drug-addled street kids are roused, amiably asks for money for a cigarette.

You notice a fair amount walking the same route day after day. For example, it's clear that Africans (black and white) care little for dustbins. Unwrapping something and dropping the paper or plastic instantly to the ground all occurs in one flowing movement that seems second nature; like blinking or stepping out suddenly into the traffic firmly believing that the human body will win the duel against a speeding Volkswagen.

Looking for changes

After a while, the home-to-work-to-home path becomes ingrained so you start looking around for changes in scenery.

Construction sights slowly start to become buildings (while construction workers test the limits of safety, dangling over building edges to wave at their chums), certain bars and restaurants become more or less popular as the seasons change (though one dingy establishment, aptly named The Crypt, is a perennial favourite and not afraid to serve beer from sunrise to sunrise. The earliest beer I've seen slaking a thirst was at nine am, certainly a more abrasive start to the day than the traditional cornflakes).

For me, the slow stroll is an essential part of slowing life down; it's also an opportunity to feel more connected with the city I live in. You see the people and you talk to the people, you don't simply rush from A to B. And, naturally, it's the easiest way to score cheap drugs.

Walking home in the early evenings, I pass the same three stooges without fail. There's a moth-eaten car guard, an indifferent security guard and a young, well-dressed man. They look a disparate group, but they're always huddling together, seemingly conferring over the day's non-events.

They're always on hand to volunteer their wares with such wide grins and graceful congeniality that I half expect them to be selling Tupperware and not "the strongest chronic", "the smoothest Malawian" or "some coke that will make you buzz all night".

A comic moment

Last night there was a comic moment thrown in for good measure, c'est la vie on the side streets of Cape Town. The well-dressed gent, as always, listed what he had in stock as I walked past unhurriedly.

At the same time he boldly handed me a leaflet that read "Education Loans: provide for children's education." I looked up. "Loans or weed," I asked, "which is it?"

He just smiled a kind of bashful smile, as if to say "yeah. I know. Peddling narcotics and student loans isn't exactly what I had imagined either."

I'm not sure the authorised financial provider printing the pamphlets would see the funny side.

But at the man distributing their promises of "funding for education" clearly has a keen sense irony. And at least he's offering a choice.

Send your comments to David.

Disclaimer: News24 encourages freedom of speech and the expression of diverse views. The views of columnists published on News24 are therefore their own and do not necessarily represent the views of News24.

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KOBUS 5/12/2009 10:59:05 AM
Funny thing is, only in the Cape Town CBD can you meander through the streets without (too much) fear... In any other city in SA, you risk death. And I wish I was joking...

Ivan 5/12/2009 10:59:31 AM
The lighter side of life, I imagine??

Peter 5/12/2009 11:19:15 AM
Thanks for that slice of Cape Town, haven't done that it years. Been a while since I worked in central Slaapstad, when I do leave the 'burbs and venture in I feel like a real country Hick ... Was cool to read and picture your view :-)

susie 5/12/2009 11:32:41 AM
aah - nothing better than a stroll along Long St . I love it - it's wonderful. We do live in a fabulous city - lucky us.

Zita 5/12/2009 11:40:02 AM
I feel like getting in my car and drive to the city centre just so I can take this walk. Very amusing viewpoint you shared with us, thanks.

BLACKsoWHAT! 5/12/2009 11:40:27 AM
We meander through the streets all the time, hippos and gun trotting police, not forgetting IFP stick holders are a thing of the past, hugh!

Foreign 5/12/2009 11:56:25 AM
Definately not your best. Quite poor in fact.

JK 5/12/2009 12:10:03 PM
The fact that they can take a stroll in the city any time of the day or night without being mugged/killed. Of course, if you go to a Mediterranean country, you also get a siesta thrown in where you can slow down even more... Sadly, in Joburg you wouldn't even think of walking one block in broad daylight and everything is rush, rush, rush...

Loxx 5/12/2009 12:15:20 PM
thank you for facilitating a much needed 5 minute break.

MF 5/12/2009 12:17:11 PM
Great read Dave. I lived in sydney for a while and while safe, its a bore. Cape town is vibrant and on an upward curve, thats exciting!

Lejane 5/12/2009 12:17:24 PM
I love Long Street !

Johncarlos 5/12/2009 12:23:23 PM
I come from a smaller city so I was quite uncomfortable with the prominence of homeless people and beggers in Cape Town when I first arrived. I got used to it and now I appreciate being here. Its quite nice strolling around and there's very little 'downtown'.

Win 5/12/2009 12:24:21 PM
part of the mine dumps around Joburg itself. If you look at the rest of the world, all their centres are proudly displayed where you can walk without been mugged, stabbed, raped and whatever crime comes to mind.

Dbnboy 5/12/2009 12:48:28 PM
I am now based in Joburg, my parents dont understand why I prefer walking in Durban. I tell them after being so scared of walking in Joburg, Durban is the only city I know here where one can walk the streets without being mugged. Happy that Cape Town is like that too.

Rodders 5/12/2009 12:54:43 PM
While I'm sure Slaapstad is prettier in many respects to Jozi, I take umbrage at what Kobus says about other SA cities - I used to work at the Carelton Centre and would love nothing better than strolling the streets theough my lunch hour, checking the shops in the Smal St Mall, and the wide range of products on offer at all the hawker tables in the streets - a wonderfully African vibe you'll get nowhere else in the world!!!

Jaz 5/12/2009 12:54:54 PM
Very well-written and descriptive piece. I could easily see what David saw on his stroll.

werner 5/12/2009 1:00:06 PM
Here in 'Joburg you either stay at work or use a car. You don't walk anywhere. Sad but true.

garyh 5/12/2009 1:01:12 PM
As an ex Capetonian, I often spent evenings as a teenager in the CBD catching trains and ice kating etc. Nowadays in Pretoria or JHB, this is highly risky, even during the day. I was pleasantly suprised in CT during December, we parked our car at 21h00 hours and strolled safely through the CBD, visiting stalls and restuarants, it was brilliant, Another very good reason to move back hey! The Mother City simply RULES!

Tony 5/12/2009 1:11:07 PM
Welcome to the inner ring! Long Street in Cape Town is the CHILL centre of the Universe - I'm never sure if it's the CHI or the HILL or the ILL, but it all fits!

Slick 5/12/2009 1:17:11 PM
To live in Cape Town. The city has managed to do what Jhb, Durbs, etc have failed to do - keep the city centre safe enough for meandering, eating, drinking, etc, day or night.

Joe Doorn 5/12/2009 1:21:28 PM
is a stunning city as far as the CBD's concerned. Lots of old, beautiful buildings and parks. If they manage to get rid of the crime, I'm pretty sure it'll rival CT one day. Would love to walk it's streets without any fear of getting blown away or mugged. Interesting fact: Jhb is the biggest man-made forest in the world.

Neil 5/12/2009 1:32:38 PM
This is one reason im happy to be back in CT. The same thing in Joburg CBD would be suicidal as I know from previous experience. People told me stories of the old days before all the big corporate offices moved from the CBD to Sandton. During lunch time groups of employees would be escorted by a security guard for a relaxing meandering to the coffee shops and spazas. Yaa.. Its good to know that citizens at least still have the luxury of walking on the streets in Cape Town CBD

Dan 5/12/2009 1:45:15 PM
I use to work in Breestreet and stayed in Tamboerskloof before moving to Joburg. I know, WTF? I use to take the stroll down Kloofstreet everyday and can't imagine a better start to ones day. I think I'll ask for a relocation tomorrow!

Joe 5/12/2009 1:56:25 PM
Parts of the JHB CBD have really been turned around and are safe to walk around too. These days even sidewalk coffee shops and restaurants can be found in the Jhb cbd. Dont believe me, take a stroll around the Ghandi square,main street, simmonds street or even marshall and anderson street:)

Sean 5/12/2009 2:02:27 PM
I'm from Cape Town but have been living in London and now Dublin for 2 years. Cape Town is a great place, but I understand what you mean by identifying with a city. It's nice to get a tram into Dublin city and to just walk around all day. You have the parks, the shopping, the culture, the vibrancy. Sometimes I felt Cape Town lacked that... It still isn't a truely communter friendly city.

Greg 5/12/2009 2:20:06 PM
I often take a walk around the Carlton Centre or have lunch on the side streets in Braamfontein...& New Town Rocks! And I've only had good experiences. It really has the feel, vine and energy of other great African cities - only Johannesburg is much cleaner... I'm originally a Capetonian - so do miss the Cape Town type ramble - but Johannesburg is much too big & spread out for that... Besides - before Cape Town became a tourist centre - I remember that in the 80's it was pretty boring...

roxy73 5/12/2009 2:21:21 PM
Nice one - can't remember when I last took a stroll like that. Living in the Joburg subs, there arent many opportunities, but should one present itself, I will take a moment to smell the flowers ( or the garbage) and take some stunning photographs! Well written and I like the choice bit at the end. Clearly "Foreign" should eat some happy pills and go back to where he came from!

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