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Georgina Guedes

Get off the bus!

2008-05-08 10:39

Georgina Guedes

When I was at school (pre-1994), one of the black girls in my class asked everyone whether, if she had a birthday party in Soweto, the white girls would come.

Most of us stoutly said that we would, without actually discussing it with our parents, who, in those days would have been responsible for getting us there, but the invitations to the party were never forthcoming, so the real test of our intention never took place.

In the years since then, I have been to Soweto a couple of times. I have visited Aids clinics that I was writing stories about, and I was once taken to Wandi's on a press trip (every white person's most accessible Soweto adventure). But to this day, I haven't yet visited a friend there.

My husband's cousin is visiting us from Germany and we are finding ourselves, in our thirties, doing the tourism thing in our home town for the first time. Of course, a trip to Soweto is on the cards.

Girls love shopping

The part that I am looking forward to the most is the informal market outside Baragwanath Hospital. Whenever I am traveling outside of South Africa, my favourite place to visit is always the local market.

In Mozambique, we made a special journey across the bay from Inhambane to Maxixe to walk through a market town. In Thailand and Laos, the best places to see what the locals ate - not only green curry and noodles, believe me - were the town markets.

In Mozambique I bought a stack of enameled metal bowls, which are very useful in my kitchen, and some second-hand clothes that I can only imagine came from aid shipments from the United States. In Laos, I bought little herbal tablets to rub onto my skin, like soap, to make it smooth. And I won't even get started on what I bought in Thailand.

Of course, there were curry pastes and noodles, and beautiful fabrics and clothes. There were fruits I have never seen before, and probably don't want to again, considering how revolting they smelled. There were all sorts of undesirable parts of animals, and vats of strange looking river fish. Oh, and did I mention that there were clothes?

First-hand experience

Markets provide a real taste of how the people of an area live, what they eat, what they need and what they do. So it's about time that I visited a market in my own country so I can learn more about how the majority of my countrymen live.

The only experience I've had of a Soweto market - I'm not even sure it's the same one - was in the episode of Amazing Race, when Rob and Amber were recognised by one woman who knew them from Survivor, and helped on their task of buying various items to take to a children's home.

I remember thinking, "that looks like an interesting sort of place", and making a note to go there some day.

So I'm grateful to my husband's cousin (cousin-in-law?) for getting me on a tour bus to Soweto. Granted, I'm still not visiting a friend there, but I will spend a day in a town that constitutes a rich part of our cultural heritage, seeing some of the important sites and maybe learning a thing or two about my fellow South Africans.

  • Georgina Guedes is a freelance journalist. She knows that lots of Parisians have never been up the Eiffel Tower.

    Send your comments to Georgina.

    Disclaimer: News24 encourages freedom of speech and the expression of diverse views. The views of columnists published on News24 are therefore their own and do not necessarily represent the views of News24. News24 editors reserve the right to edit or delete any and all comments received.

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  • Kolobe 5/8/2008 10:51:01 AM
    I have always flocked your ignorance in the past..brilliant piece of writting and an excellent article..Looking forward to see you in Soweto..Give me a shout out when you are there so that I can organise Mopani worms, Mala Mogodi(tribe) for you...Now a toast to a well written article...

    Carol 5/8/2008 11:04:55 AM
    Good on you! Something I would just love to do a bus tour to Soweto. Visit a typical shabeen.Also maybe stop at a eatery and have a bite to eat, Mopani worms Kolobe? I dont know if I am that brave. Great article!

    Win 5/8/2008 11:13:00 AM
    Mopani worms with butter with a slight dash of garlic....Now thats nosh! I've been in Tembisa plenty times from the early hours of the morning to leaving around 10:30 at night and driving home. People should also, despite the hardships of crime, realise that people live there. They work with us day in and day out, just like Mr Kolobe and I do. And yes Kolobe, I'm white!

    Nick 5/8/2008 11:19:12 AM
    Being safe in SA is all about eliminating risk, as a white boy travelling alone in Soweto I think I'd just be looking for trouble - call me pessimistic. But I really don't want to be a statistic on the seventh page on some obscure newspaper that no-one reads.

    Kolobe 5/8/2008 11:26:48 AM
    Typical swaart gevaar he nick??it is funny nick that all the tourists including 50 cents, Mike tyson go to soweto for a visit..but a south african that always debate issues with blacks(myself of course) finds my people dangerous..thats very nice coming from you nick...anyway its is your choice..it is a fact that none of the tourist were murdered in soweto but more than fifty on the table mountain in cape town..points to think about...Visit tourism south africa's website for your shock...

    Kevin 5/8/2008 11:30:30 AM
    I've been to Alex recently, but I haven't been to Soweto for several years. I think is is morphing into just a typical mostly working call living space, but its terribly PC to wax lyrical about it as a tourist experience. Wow go to an informal market, wow, eat a few worms. Its not exactly pretty, the landscape is profoundly uninspiring, and its a bit of a drive from typical middle-class haunts, along roads that are renowned as highjack hotspots. So far from applauding you,.....

    Motho 5/8/2008 11:35:33 AM
    @Nick soweto has become a diverse place,there are a lot of white people who live and work there,sowetans are revamping their township to become like other suburbs,so no need to worry. I suggest u ask one of yr black friends to take u for a trip.U will enjoy it. Great article!

    Kolobe 5/8/2008 11:42:24 AM
    Soweto has a five star hotel, Nelson Mandela museum,Desmond tutu museum,hector peterson memorial museum, freedom square...And if you want a night in the Ghetto my friend there is no better place like Soweto..call me for a trip around soweto then you will realise what you have been missing...

    Mrabaraba 5/8/2008 11:48:54 AM
    You're not an angel! stay in Brakpan its good for you.Who cares?There are many white people who visit Soweto and it's a beautiful place to socialise,Please throw away that nasty attitude!!

    Nkhesani Maluleke 5/8/2008 11:49:00 AM
    Its pity that people from far fetched places will pay thousands of rands to tour SA yet South African born and bred dont know their backyards and surroundings. I'm from Limpopo and now reside in JHB. I have been asked by a South African as to how many border posts do I cross when I go to Limpopo. Lets expolure our beautiful land.

    Nick 5/8/2008 11:53:26 AM
    I have no doubt that Mike Tyson and 50 cents had many people with them. Don't sit there and tell me that If I got on a taxi on my own and cruised into Soweto "just to have a look around" I'd not be exposing myself to any danger, coz I'd say you're living in a dream world. Crime is huge issue. I appreciate it's cosmopolitan and there's lots happening, but what's the huge tourist attraction? Apart from the PC aspect and the fact that "I'm white so I should feel guilty about breathing"

    Sizwe 5/8/2008 11:55:56 AM
    I really fail to understand why tourists are so obsessed with visiting Soweto and other black townships around the country. A couple of seasons ago, the Amazing Race took the contestants straight to Khyalitsha/Gugulethu. During another season, they went straight to Soweto and then on to Lesedi village near Hartbeespoort Dam! I mean WTF?? Are we so PC or is it plain liberal white guilt?

    Mary 5/8/2008 11:56:34 AM
    You can also visit the beautiful shopping mall there.I think Soweto is alive with possibility! Lovely article.

    Kolobe 5/8/2008 12:02:21 PM
    Drop me your email and I will cruise with you to soweto...I will lecture you with south african history..

    vladimar 5/8/2008 12:02:40 PM
    take a bus or a drive with friends which are from soweto is safe.but a drive alone wonder around soweto you are looking trouble even if you are black

    Nick 5/8/2008 12:06:16 PM
    You assume I live in Brakpan? Talk about stereotypical. I have no nasty attitude, the nasty attitude was from the 4 youths who stuck the 38 in my face going into Bara and took my watch, cellphone and cash, I've been there pal - many times. Don't assume. Think.

    carol 5/8/2008 12:09:56 PM
    Please include me as well!

    Dee 5/8/2008 12:18:56 PM
    I also have a hard time convincing people that we have some of the most incredible tourist highlights in the world...and I'm not talking about Kruger. I believe every south african should go to the Apartheid museum (how many even know where it is?), to Robben Island and to Soweto. If you take a reputable tour, it's perfectly safe, informative, it keeps the economy going, and it was an amazing experience for me as a South African.

    Observer 5/8/2008 12:19:38 PM
    Im not exactly black and I don't have any qualms visiting my friends in Soweto...and the mall is a nice shopping experience. Nothing has ever happened to me driving around Soweto alone, like you so fear. Im just saying.....

    Sicelo 5/8/2008 12:29:43 PM
    Do you not think that Joburg Africans also feel threatened by going to places like Wolmeraanstad etc but we do , WHy cause it's our f***n country bot black and white . Are you afraid to walk around your neighbourhood as well Nick cause you feel you might get robbed , think twice brother . You can get raped and killed in your own bed.

    charlz 5/8/2008 12:38:46 PM
    I grew up in Mmabatho in the then Bophuthatswana. I never thought Id set foot in Soweto because of what we read and saw on tv - taxi violence,etc. I've been living in Joburg since 2001 and I go to Soweto all the time (in my VW golf) to vist friends, for chesa nama, iv bin on a "soweto tour" organised by a Sowetan friend. I wont drive there at night thou so I make sure I leave before sunset.

    Kolobe 5/8/2008 12:39:10 PM
    What is it that tourist can enjoy in big cities because they have that in their own contries..why would you want to come to africa and leave without understanding how africans live...Our culture,Food,Life styles can only be found in townships...not the so-called civilised surburbian life that many of us have...True African life is in the townships and then visit Kruger for wildlife expierience...then and only then can you say you have visited Mzantsi...

    Sicelo 5/8/2008 12:40:44 PM
    Funny enough Sizwe ive asked myself that question y do tourists come to Soweto and take pictures of us darkies walking around as if we are caged animals.Someone said to me when you go to London , new york do you not take pictures of they neighbourhoods.

    SB 5/8/2008 12:44:23 PM
    Hey Kolobe, maybe you can organise a tour and guide a few of us whiteys.

    GailC 5/8/2008 12:49:18 PM
    When I get there sometime! I live in the Eastern Cape and have been into local African suburbs on my own and with friends including some of the areas which I have been warned not to go into and into homes of wonderful hospitable people despite the little they have. It didn't take a tourist to make me break out of my little cocoon and I am an almost 60something woman who went in her own car. You just have to be sensible and that applies all over the world. Live a little. My 24yr old son has been 2

    Kolobe 5/8/2008 12:49:51 PM
    Tourism in South Africa is quite bizarre..I hear in Durban..one of the tourism attraction is Zulu Polygamists that married Eight wives..and all the tourists look forward to visiting his home for interviewing his wives..I guess I should try out a racial intergrated polygamous marriage and make money out of it..I already have a black wife..If I can marry a white,Indian,coloured,chinese,brazilian wives then all the toursist will visit my house in Soweto..Money..

    Kolobe 5/8/2008 12:53:52 PM
    Thats a great idea..How many of you guys are really interested??

    GailC 5/8/2008 12:54:46 PM
    Be cautious as to where you go and ask advice of those who live there. Take a jikeleza even. My son who is 33 actually slept over in the so called no-go areas way back in the early 90's with our permission. People are people and if your time is up it could happen in your own home as easily as the townships. In fact more likely to happen in your home than the townshp.

    Zee 5/8/2008 12:58:25 PM
    Let's be honest here, Soweto is a POLITICAL/HISTORICAL attraction, not a TOURIST attraction in the strict sense of the term. Wandi's Place is massively over-rated, particularly the food. If it wasn't in Soweto, NO-ONE would go there (the fact that the locals don't eat there shows something...). The Holiday Inn in Soweto Kolobe refers to has 4 stars, not 5. And finally, objectively, Nic's security fears are justified. The question whether he's any safer in the Northern suburbs is moot.

    GBOB 5/8/2008 1:05:43 PM
    I have no fear of visiting any black township,provided my local black friends are with me.No problem.I notice the tv shows focus on black townships,also the foreign diplomats & dignitaries are invited by the ANC to black townships,BUT never to coloured townships.Never. Why ?

    Werner 5/8/2008 1:05:53 PM
    its a "white fear", but I'm too scared to visit any township.

    The Watcher 5/8/2008 1:07:21 PM
    Hey Sizwe. Remeber most of these tourists don't have townships where a certain race of people live was designated to live. To them it's something they have never seen before, only heard or read about from the media, so hence the attraction. Why would they only want to see the cities or towns which look like where they come from if they are here to tour and explore.

    Karen 5/8/2008 1:14:36 PM
    Why do tourists want to come and see how our poor black people live? The things they are shown are not real anyway, its been adpated to show whatever it it is they want to show to the tourists. They aren't seeing the real people. I have spent time with rural blacks who still live life the old way. The old people are the kindest, gentlest people you could meet and their beliefs and culture is rich and interesting. The urban black man has become westernised to a degree and with that - boring.

    angelo 5/8/2008 1:27:02 PM
    yeah why not arla park ,dawn park,rege park,gelesdull,daggafotien but watch out might get stabed eish eldo's

    EB 5/8/2008 1:29:00 PM
    Have not visited Soweto but have been in many townships on the south coast. I volunteered for the work to help upcoming black businesses. I was first a bit reluctant but was surprised with how friendly the people were. Obviously the word was spread what I was doing and people went out of their way to make things comfortable and pleasant. Thanks you. The only bad thing I did not like was the condition of the poor dogs?.

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