Baghdad now a ghost town

2003-03-19 11:16

Baghdad - Cherished by its residents as the "city of peace", this has become a virtual ghost town bracing for imminent war as time runs out on a United States ultimatum to President Saddam Hussein to quit his country.

The pace of city life has sharply slowed as traffic jams in the usually vibrant capital have disappeared, except near petrol stations where cars were queuing for hours to avoid shortages in the event of war breaking out after Thursday's deadline expired.

Most shops not only locked their metal shutters, but also emptied their shelves and put their inventory in safe storage from possible bombings or lootings.

One shopowner near the historic al-Mustansiriya College on the Tigris River is hiding more than 3 000 carpets, including many rare oriental treasures, at his own home.

Many Baghdadis have moved to other regions, or at least taken their wives, children and elderly relatives to areas outside the capital where the United States says Saddam Hussein has entrenched his elite troops. Even schools remained closed on Tuesday.

For those who stayed behind, life was a mission to secure stocks for long-term survival in case of prolonged food, medicine, fuel, electricity and even cash shortages.

Prices have doubled, tripled

Cars and trucks were parking at petrol stations for hours, until past midnight, to fill their tanks and other containers for newly-bought generators at home.

Prices for all commodities have doubled, even tripled in some cases, in the past few days.

Some foreign journalists heeding evacuation calls by their governments had to pay $600 (about R4 900) on Tuesday morning for taxis to Amman or Damascus, but the price went up to $1 200 in the afternoon. It usually costs $200.

Water tanks that usually cost $35 were sold at $75.

Ahmad Abdel Aziz said: "Most people are even buying small plastic bags, which are sold for $15 for a pack of 3 000, to fill them with water.

"It looks really odd to have small water bags everywhere in the house."

Aziz was sitting at his shop where workers were racing to build water tanks, some even on the pavement.

From afar, King Ghazi street looks very threatening, with crowds of men cramming one side of the road.

But, as one gets closer, the scene gets clearer. It is the "street bourse", or men grouping around rusty metallic safes on small tables behind which dealers stand to exchange dinars and dollars.

But the rush was obviously exceptional, with some eager to secure hard currencies and others seeking to get enough dinars to buy necessities in the event of war.

Abu Mustapha, a taxi driver, could hardly see in front of him as he walked away with $500 worth of Iraqi dinars - a massive wad given the largest Iraqi banknote is just 250 dinars (0.08 cents).

The Iraqi dinar traded sharply lower against the dollar on Tuesday a day after US President George W Bush gave Saddam and his two sons 48 hours to leave or face military action.

A defiant Saddam has rejected the ultimatum, as the White House warned of a US invasion, no matter what.

Retaurants closed

On Tuesday evening, the night life was dead at usually busy Arasat Street, which was completely deserted and dark, with rows of tightly sealed iron shutters and closed restaurants.

The clientele of the past few days has dwindled since the rushed evacuation on Tuesday of United Nations staff, foreign diplomats and many journalists.

There was just one lone taxi driver, sitting quietly in the dark in his car.

"We are not wondering whether there will be war anymore," he said with a deeply melancholic look.

"We are just anxious about the exact time the bombs will start raining on our ancient Arab city before the eyes of a heedless world." - Sapa-AFP

- SAPA