Searching for 'lost tribes'

2003-12-01 09:07

Liesl Louw
Media24 Africa News

Johannesburg - Three adventurous South Africans will form part of a group undertaking an expedition into unexplored Africa, to locate the "lost tribes" of the Sudan.

Along the White Nile they are likely to encounter herds of elephant, lions, leopards, hyenas and giraffes, and most probably hippos, crocodiles, a host of exotic birds as well as the Nile bass, one of the world's largest fresh water fish.

Further north, in Central and Southern Sudan ancient fortresses, temples and archaeological sites await them...

But, before they get there, they have to cross two of the most dangerous war zones in Africa, several waterfalls, rapids and a remote marshland the size of France.

Nobody in living memory has attempted this dangerous journey, yet these three intrepid South Africans, a New Zealander, an Englishman and an Irish doctor are embarking on January 17. They plan to navigate the White Nile from its origin in Uganda for 6 500km downstream to the Mediterranean.

"In some stretches the local population is totally isolated from the outside world. We'll probably be the first white people they have seen in generations," says Hendri Coetzee, 28, an experienced white water canoeist who has braved nature in several African locations.

Rebels, mosquitoes, disease

Judging from his conversation it appears as if he has been preparing himself for the journey his entire life.

"Hardly any maps exist for some of the places we intend passing through. We'll try to get hold of some of Nasa's."

He has all the available information about the White Nile at his fingertips.

"I probably read too much Wilbur Smith as a child," he says almost apologetically.

John H Speke discovered the origin of the Nile in 1868. Other travellers have navigated parts of the river, Africa's largest, but nobody has completed the entire stretch.

"There are many stories about ancient steamers lying rotting for the past 100 years. Maybe we will be lucky enough to find some traces of previous explorers," Coetzee relates enthusiastically.

The journey starts at Bujagali waterfall in Jinja and then proceeds north towards Uganda. Adventurers have tackled this stretch in the past, however, across the border, in the Sudan at Nimule, huge rapids await the adventurers at "the spot where all previous explorers seem to turn back".

From here the Nile flows to Juba, a city that has been controlled by South Sudanese rebels of the Sudanese People's Liberation Army (SPLA) for many years.

The team hope to locate outboard engines for their canoes here. The first section is white water and therefore unsuitable for regular boat engines.

From there they proceed to Bor on the tip of the Sudd marsh, where they hope to get assistance and supplies with the help of the international aid organisation Care International.

The unknown zone

Then they enter the unknown zone: the most difficult part of their journey.

The journey from Bor to Malakal runs through dense papyrus, home to malaria mosquitoes en "all kinds of tropical diseases". The "lost tribes" live here.

"The area is a mass of hundreds of little stream through which you have to negotiate. There are no maps available, so we'll have to discover it on our own."

The United Nations is said to operate a ferry here, completing the journey in three weeks, but Coetzee says it appears unlikely that they will get a ride on the ferry for part of the stretch.

"If they are unwilling to take us, we'll have to attempt it on our engines," he says.

No living soul or animal

The group will take in supplies from the local population at Malakal. From there the journey to Khartoum, Sudan's capital, appears somewhat easier, but still long and exhausting.

They plan on buying a wooden boat, a felucca, in Khartoum to continue their journey.

"From there it will be like driving on one of our highways. Along the river are villages, people and other vessels on the river."

Ian Fraser, 42, also a South African on the team, has 20 years' experience of white water canoeing as well as other expeditions into Africa. He operates a commercial white water rafting company on the Nile.

The other South African, Pete Meredith, 35, is also an experienced white water canoeist and game expert. He is particularly interested in studying the flora and fauna of the regions they plan to pass through.

Other members of the team are Dan Prior, 26, a British TV producer, Natalie McComb, 31, a New Zealand adventure guide and Dr Ian Clark, 52, an Irishman who has been working in Uganda for the past 20 years.

The team are aware that even though they are capable of braving the highest waterfalls and roughest rapids, the most dangerous unknown factor they are likely to face is people.

To the north of Uganda a bloody war is raging between government troops and the notorious Lord's Resistance Army, but Coetzee is confident that their route, further to the west, is away from hot conflict zones.

In the Sudan the SPLA has been fighting for more than 20 years against the Muslim regime in Khartoum - a devastating war that has driven thousands from their homes. The Khartoum army attacks some villages in the south from the air.

Peace negotiations were however initiated last year between SPLA leader, John Garang, and the government and the finer details of the treaty are now being negotiated.

"Southern Sudan posed a huge problem for us, but we are hopeful peace will help us," says Coetzee.

The team met SPLA representatives four months ago in Nairobi, who appear to have agreed to provide them with a guide. Following endless hassles they also obtained permission from the Sudanese embassy for passage through the country.

No hurry

Things can still go wrong for them even though they have all the necessary visas and documents.

The team has been warned that some tribes are likely to try and kidnap them. "They might detain us for a time, but what can we do? There is only so much one can prepare for," says Coetzee.

Their purpose in undertaking the expedition is to try and glean as much information about the "lost tribes" of the Sudan and about the people and animals of the region.

The expedition is supported by several sponsors, including African River Crafts, who donated two of the canoes, AVNIC Trading in South Africa who supplied GPS (global positioning satellite), and Kenyan and Ugandan companies who donated, among other things, a satellite phone and computers.

These explorers plan on completing their journey in four months. Time however, is of little consequence to Coetzee. "None of us is in any great hurry," he says.

Beeld will post regular reports over the progress of the White Nile expedition. Visit the website www.settlethenile.com

- Media24 Africa