Painting the Vatican red

2003-10-20 17:47

Vatican City - Red hat, red cassock, red socks.

When Pope John Paul II installs 30 cardinals on Tuesday, they must be decked out from head to foot in the crimson colour that symbolises their pledge to defend the church.

As soon as the pope announced the names of the new cardinals on September 29, the phones started ringing at Rome's ecclesiastical shops with nominees from around the world putting in their orders.

More often than not the chosen outfitter is Gammarelli, tailors by papal appointment, whose family has been dressing Catholic clergy since 1793. John Paul is the shop's leading customer.

With just three weeks to prepare the outfits, all made to order, and for the most part by hand, Massimiliano and his uncle Annibale, the present Gammarelli heirs, have been working around the clock.

"We'll be busy right up until the last minute," said Massimiliano.

At the elevation ceremony - formally called a consistory - the new cardinals will be dressed in the bright red robes that show their commitment to shed their blood for the church. They will kneel before John Paul to receive the three-cornered crimson biretta that marks their status as the pope's closet advisers.

Michele Ombroso, the tailor for the more modern Euroclero shop a two minute walk from St Peter's Square, has also been staying up late. The family-run store, which opened in the 1960's, is doing about 10% of the orders.

"It's just like making a custom made suit - you measure, you baste, you correct, and you hope one fitting will do," said Ombroso, who looks to outside help for the handmade detailing.

A cardinal's ceremonial outfit typically includes: a red wool cassock lined in red silk, a rochet, or white surplice garment worn over the cassock; a short red cape known as a mozzetta; a red and gold tasselled cord, a red skull cap called a zucchetto; the red biretta; a red moire silk sash and a pair of red socks.

Over the years, the wardrobe of cardinals, also known as "princes of the church," has been simplified. The more pompous items such as the flashy moire cape, the tasseled wide-brimmed hat and silver buckled shoes have been phased out.

Both Gammarelli and Ombroso agree that the basic cost of an outfit for Tuesday's ceremony is around $1 380, but say the price can quickly go up according to choice of fabric and detailing.

Cardinal's rarely buy their own clothes and are usually outfitted by relatives and well-wishers. The pope himself donates the gold rings the cardinals receive during the consistory ceremony. "It's not every day you have a cardinal in the family. Relatives are happy to splurge," Gammarelli said.

- SAPA