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'We don't have many options'
13/04/2007 15:03 - (SA)
Kathmandu - As teams set off from Nepal's capital to begin acclimatising for the main Everest climbing season in May, one group already knows they have what it takes to reach the top of the world.
The seven-member "Super Sherpa" team already have 47 successful summits of the world's tallest peak between them and are climbing to increase awareness of the role of Sherpas in mountaineering.
While the term Sherpa refers to an ethnic group, nowadays the term applies to all those who support Himalayan expeditions.
Appa Sherpa, one of the expedition's two leaders, has reached Mount Everest's 8 848-metre summit 16 times, and if successful again this year, will beat his own world record.
Second leader Lhapka Gelu Sherpa's feats are no less impressive with a dozen successful summits, and in 2003, he briefly held the world record for the fastest ascent of the mountain - just under 11 hours.
Preparations for climbers
This season's Everest summit attempts are still weeks away but already teams of high-altitude climbing Sherpas are busy on the mountain, undertaking intricate preparations needed for summit attempts by fee-paying foreign climbers.
Kilometres of rope need to be laid out, dozens of ladders to bridge crevasses and tons of bottled oxygen and other equipment have to be carried up to the four sites between base camp and the summit, all work for the Sherpas.
"Sherpas need to do everything for the expedition teams, from cooking food to fixing ropes and setting camps," said 47-year-old Appa who like most Sherpas began working as a porter in his teens.
"Without Sherpa support it would be incredibly difficult to climb the mountains," the world-beating mountaineer said.
In addition to the work, Sherpas often accompany foreign climbers on their summit attempts and have been known to perform seemingly superhuman feats to bring clients to safety.
Aside from seeking to highlight the role of Sherpas in mountaineering, the expedition is aiming to raise cash for schools in the Everest region.
Strength and stamina
At Everest base camp there is only half the oxygen there is at sea level, while at the summit there is just a third, so Sherpas need immense strength and stamina or the high-altitude work can be deadly.
Last year, three Sherpas were killed - one a good friend of Appa and Lhapka - in the Khumbu Icefall, a dangerous area at around 5 500 metres between base camp and camp one.
"Foreign climbers would only have to pass through the icefall five or six times, but Sherpa guides and porters have to make the trip through one of Everest's most dangerous zones more than 20 times carrying mountaineering gear," said 39-year-old Lhapka.
You could be the most experienced climber in the world and still be killed by an icefall, and the more times the trip is taken, the higher the risk, Appa said.
Foreign climbers spend thousands of dollars trying to reach the summit of Everest and people have different motivations for risking their lives to get there, but for the Sherpas, the reason for taking such huge risks is simple.
Climbing to support families
"Foreign climbers do it for adventure but most of the Sherpas do it for bread and butter - to support the family," said Appa.
The highland regions that are home to the Sherpas are breathtakingly beautiful but also extremely harsh.
"We don't have many options in our region. We can't even grow rice, only potatoes," said Appa.
With top ranking Sherpas commanding up to $7 000 a season - a fortune in a country where annual income averages $240 - competition for jobs is fierce.
Around 300 high-altitude climbing Sherpas will be working on Everest this season.
Generally, porters and cooks who stay below base camp are paid less than $10 per day, but with limited employment options, even this is a desirable career for many.
Welcome more expeditions
Some believe Everest should not play host to large numbers of commercial clients who usually pay a minimum of $10 000 to expedition organisers.
The Sherpas see things differently.
"We would welcome more expeditions to come to Nepal because more local people would get jobs as porters and guides. It would create opportunities for families to earn money. They can sell food and provide lodging," said Lhapka.
Despite being at the top of their profession, none of the expedition leaders say they will encourage their children to follow in their footsteps.
"I want to educate my kids and make them doctors and engineers. They (the kids) don't want to climb mountains. They say every time to me: 'Daddy don't go to the mountains,'" said Lhapka.
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