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Wine tastings go virtual

2007-04-17 09:50
line

San Francisco - David Dain Smith lives in Missouri, but his California winery is just a click away, waiting to spring to life in the dim glow of his computer screen.

Smith is making wine through Crushpad, a winery where the grapes are real but the experience is as virtual as members want it to be with e-mail updates, live chat and webcams.

For Smith, 49, a microbiologist working in pharmaceutical sales, the dream of making wine seemed like it would have to wait until retirement.

"Do you have $3m sitting around? Well, I don't," said Smith.

He is now making Dain wines, to some acclaim, while keeping his day job.

At $5 000 to $10 000 to make the minimum one barrel a year, Crushpad costs more than stomping grapes in a garage. But it is far from the financial plunge of setting up a winery.

Wine and poetry

The meeting of technology and enology has democratised other areas as well, said New York musician Lane Steinberg.

Years ago, wine criticism was for a privileged few. Today, Steinberg is one of scores of keyboard connoisseurs who rate wines on his Red Wine Haiku Review website, which rates wine by poetry.

San Francisco-based Crushpad was started by businessman Michael Brill after he noticed that neighbours were fascinated by the vines he planted in his backyard and realised there was a market ready to be tapped.

Members sign up to make at least one barrel of wine per year (300 75-millilitre bottles) and decide what style of wine they want and what grapes they want to buy.

Winery staff keep their virtual vintners up to date with e-mails and web postings.

'Varying degrees of wrongness'

When the fruit comes in, webcams show the crush, complete with live chat so viewers can question the workers, who respond to computers equipped with voice-recognition software.

Further along in the process, members can participate in blending and bottling decisions and design their own labels.

Staff, including Crushpad winemaker Mike Zitzlaff, are there to make sure enthusiasm does not triumph over experience.

"The client is never wrong, but there are varying degrees of wrongness," he explained.

A global experience

Australian Stuart Bourne sees online wine as a way to reach a big audience and shake some of the stuffing out of traditional venues in the process.

Bourne, winemaker at the Barossa Valley Estate winery in South Australia, recently held an online tasting in which tasters had been sent samples ahead of time so they could sniff and sip along.

Tasting at the computer does not have the romance of cozying up to a tasting room bar, so Bourne took a deliberately informal approach.

"It was an amazing experience to know that you can be sitting in Australia in front of a camera and know that around the world there's a whole lot of other people sitting there watching and participating with you," he said.

On the net:

  • Red Wine Haiku
  • Crushpad
  • Dain Wines
  • Stuart Bourne

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