Scandal piques interest for horsemeat
2013-02-12 22:25
London - Speciality meat suppliers in Britain have seen a
surge in sales of horse burgers, with a scandal over the discovery of horsemeat
in beef burgers and ready meals apparently piquing the curiosity of some shoppers.
Viewed as a delicacy in some European countries, in South
America and in east Asia, horsemeat is generally not eaten in Britain where a
horse loving public has traditionally viewed the idea of consuming it with some
distaste.
The discovery of horse DNA in beef burgers and spaghetti Bolognese
sold by Britain's retailers, including market leader Tesco, and in beef lasagne
made by frozen foods group Findus, has drawn widespread condemnation, with
government ministers blaming an "international criminal conspiracy".
However, extensive media coverage of the Europe-wide
scandal and an outbreak of horse jokes on Twitter, e-mail and texts has also
sparked interest in the consumption of horsemeat and other even more
adventurous meats.
"While people are putting horse into their shopping
cart on the website they are also putting in things like zebra, llama and
alpaca," said Paul Webb, director of central England-based speciality meat
supplier Exotic Meats.
Horsemeat, which has a sweet, gamey flavour, is cheaper
and healthier than beef, containing half the fat, more omega 3, and high in
protein and iron.
Though none of Britain's supermarkets sell horsemeat, it
is available through speciality meat suppliers and is on the menu of a few
notable restaurants, such as L'escargot Bleu in Edinburgh. Celebrity chef
Gordon Ramsay has also heralded it.
Exotic Meats has seen sales of horsemeat burgers, steaks
and mince increase tenfold since the scandal erupted on 15 January.
"People are inquisitive, intrigued by what it tastes
like," said Webb, noting horsemeat products were proving popular for
dinner party hosts who wanted to provide "a good talking point”.
Exotic Meats' horsemeat is sourced from either France,
Spain or Italy and processed in Britain by an EU approved plant.
Last week in response to the Findus scandal the firm
posted on its website a recipe for horsemeat lasagne.
Right to eat
Berwickshire, Scotland-based Kezie Foods, which sells
horsemeat products alongside elk, kangaroo and crocodile, has seen horsemeat
sales double over the last three weeks, with strong demand from restaurants as
well as individuals.
"Whenever you have issues to do with alternative
meats you either have people who decide that's not for them or people who want
to exercise their right to eat whatever they choose to eat," said director
Walter Murray.
For some the idea of eating horse remains abhorrent.
"For many horse owners, eating horsemeat is as
repulsive a concept as eating cat or dog," said Victoria Spicer, editor of
Horse & Country TV.
"The horse has been an integral part of Britain's
history and culture, and we owe our equine friends much more than this."
The British Retail Consortium, whose members represent 80%
of the UK retail industry, said although there was no evidence of consumers
avoiding beef they were being more selective in beef burger purchases, with
more interest in fresh burgers rather than frozen ones.
"What we're hearing from our members is that there
hasn't been any drastic change in customers' buying patterns as a result of any
of this because they're clear that this is not a safety issue," said a BRC
spokesperson.
However, independent butchers said they have seen an
upturn in recent trade.
"Independent butchers are experiencing greater
footfall at the present time," said Roger Kelsey, CEO of the National
Federation of Meat and Food Traders, which represents Britain's traditional
high-street butchers.
"That's basically because in the eyes of the general
public local traders are a better source of supply, due to their onsite
controls, because they tend to source product from local sources and they
produce their own products on site."
