The 10 Best ...?designers to look out for at SA??Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014

2013-09-29 14:00

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As fashionistas, buyers and socialites hustle to secure their seats, Refilwe Kgosiemang and Jeanette Chabalala pick ...

Misshape. Picture: SAFW

1 Missshape

Numerous style?mavens have been spotted in Missshape in the past year or so. The womenswear label, established by mother and son team Fikile and Jamal Nxedlana, is focused on affordable elegance. In an industry bent on designing clothes for skinny women, Missshape has dared to raise the flag for stylish clothes that are suitable for curvaceous women too. Further, they also focus on promoting local production. Their designs are as simple as they are distinctive, returning the bespoke garment to normal people. See Missshape at the Buyer’s Lounge on Sunday, October 6, and Monday, October 7.

Black Coffee. Picture: SAFW

3 Black Coffee

Black Coffee, a chic and experimental label headed by Jacques van der Watt, is famous for layering, detailing and the use of modern textiles. This leads to designs that play with contrast and reimagine traditional styles. The new collection will focus on the idea of contours. These are contours of the body and the way the silhouette can be transformed by extreme, yet wearable garments. By distorting the contour of the body, the designs gain an innovative feel. Black Coffee is showing off-site on Saturday at the 44 Stanley complex in Milpark.

Rubicon. Picture: SAFW

3 Rubicon

Rubicon is a Joburg-based fashion brand created by self-taught designer and seamstress Hangwani Nengovhela. She has fast ­become known for her classic, sophisticated, tailor-fitted designs. Each garment is carefully crafted to suit the individual and play into contemporary trends. Rubicon focuses on women’s wear. This season’s collection will explore the ­interconnections of legacy, heritage and the comfort that ancestral stories offer us. Nengovhela, showing on Friday, uses stories of where we are from as the source of inspiration when creating the garments that are an extension of ourselves.

Suzaan Heyns. Picture: SAFW

4 Suzaan Heyns

Suzaan Heyns launched her label five years ago and has since garnered a significant following among both men and women. Her work offers architectural elements with a feminine twist. Her concepts are derived from avant-garde art ideals and from shapes that suggest classic silhouettes. Her new collection, showing on Thursday, draws its inspiration from pop culture. It’s described as “a roller coaster ride through an arcade of washed out technicolours”. Garments will strike unconventionally animated and a tad exaggerated silhouettes to create a balance between pop, science and art.

Naked Ape. Picture: SAFW

5 Naked Ape

Menswear used to be a rarity at fashion week. Now it’s starting to boom. The hip, bespoke Naked Ape brand is run by Sheldon Kopman and is at the forefront of the upsurge. Though it originally drew its inspiration from the fast-paced streets of Joburg with a multicultural thrust, Naked Ape’s projection for 2014 will be revealed on Friday, and is inspired by the culture and spiritual flavour of Ethiopia. It uses unusual, locally sourced, natural fabrics like hand-knitted bamboo to gain an ethnic feel. Famously modelled by Hollywood A-lister Samuel L Jackson, Naked Ape is going from strength to strength.

Installations: Clive Rundle. Picture: SAFW

6 Installations

The catwalk is so last year. Several top designers will be creating installations throughout the course of this year’s SA Fashion Week. They are sculptural displays that both blur the boundaries of the art gallery and allow a more intimate inspection of garments. Clive Rundle, Gert-Johan Coetzee, ­Albertus Swanepoel, TWO by sisters Caren and Gina Waldman, Dusud by Errol Arendz and SIES! Isabelle will all be staging massively creative installations next week. We’re especially looking forward to Rundle – a master constructionist with strong concepts – and the earthily creative Isabelle Lotter.

Shoes Errol Arendz. Picture: Errol Arendz

7 Shoes by Errol Arendz

To get yourself in the mood for SA Fashion Week, you should consider heading over to Celebrate Shoes at Melrose Arch in Joburg today. It promises to offer one of the largest fashion shows of its kind in the country. Among the hundreds of international brands, there will also be local offerings. Veteran designer Errol Arendz will be showing his wares. True to form, they are sumptuous, steep and ooze glamour. The award-winning Arendz dresses a string of celebrities.

Loxion Kulca. Picture: SAFW

8 Loxion Kulca

Loxion Kulca, one of the country’s best-known ready-to-wear labels for urban living, is back on the catwalk. Their comprehensive new collection encompasses everything from denim and khakis, to footwear and accessories. They arrived on the street-culture scene in the early 2000s and have since gone a little quiet. However, their Saturday-night show sees them merge their street edge with runway sophistication. They will be showcasing ­Wandi Nzimande’s newest ­designs and aim to revitalise what was once a revolutionary South African brand. The label is unisex, affordable and aspirational.

Erre. Picture: Erre

9 Erre

Pronounced “air”, this is a young brand that seeks to capture the fun and the spirit of the everyday experience of clothes. “Erre” also alludes to a journey and the brand showcases a vibrant, appetising look that is inspired by travelling. Erre is aimed at corporate women and provides a wardrobe that can be worn on and off duty. Working with leather, this emerging design house aims to enhance quality and style, and push the boundaries of fashion and traditional use. They have been selected to show on Thursday’s SA Fashion Week Renault New Talent Search Collections show.

Skorzch. Picture: SAFW

10 Skorzch

As the winners of the 2012 SA Fashion Week ­Renault New Talent Search competition as well as the Nokia Youth in Design award for 2012, Skorzch gets its name from the words ‘scotch’ – patois for a checkered pattern – and ‘scorch’ – as in scorching hot. This bespoke menswear label was launched by Zano Sithetho on the back of last year’s awards. Skorzch has a specific focus on suits and Sithetho is on record saying he makes clothes for the upwardly mobile man. Skorzch suits are therefore designed to capture the full colour and ­dexterity of the man on the move.

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