Change? I see no change. The whites are still in the front of the bakkie and the blacks in the back, says Sipho Laka (41), who owns a shop on one of the dusty streets of Ventersdorp, the North West town best known as the headquarters of the Afrikaner Weerstandsbeweging (AWB) and its slain leader, Eugene Terre’Blanche (ET). In another Ventersdorp emporium, this one selling antiques, two white women concur. “For me the town is the same,” says the owner, declining to give her name.