Rosalia, women designers, stark contrasts: Paris menswear highlights

accreditation
0:00
play article
Subscribers can listen to this article
  • One of the buzziest menswear weeks in recent memory wrapped in Paris on Sunday.
  • While Vuitton created an entire apartment full of primary colours, Dior went with a starkly lit black runway and refined, sombre outfits.
  • The celeb count was high this week, with the biggest crowds of screaming fans turning up outside the Dior show for a glimpse of J-Hope from Korean pop phenomenon BTS.
  • See more highlights below.


One of the buzziest menswear weeks in recent memory wrapped in Paris on Sunday.

Here are some of the highlights:

Dior vs Louis Vuitton

Two very different approaches from two of the biggest houses, who built giant rival hangars on either end of the Tuileries Gardens that run through central Paris.

While Vuitton created an entire apartment full of primary colours and brought along Rosalia for a thumping performance on top of a car, Dior went with a starkly lit black runway and refined, sombre outfits, to the soaring music of German composer Max Richter and a small orchestra.

Both went down well, even if some complained it was hard to focus on the clothes at Vuitton while also watching Rosalia.

Justin Berkowitz, men's fashion director at New York department store Bloomingdale's said the Vuitton show was the funniest of the week, but he also praised Kim Jones's collection for Dior as "incredibly elegant with a new sophistication and sumptuousness rendered in a soft colour palette".

Singer Rosalia performs during the Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week on January 19, 2023 in Paris, France.
Singer Rosalia performs during the Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week on January 19, 2023 in Paris, France.
A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men's Fashion Week.
A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men's Fashion Week.

BTS, Chalamet, Usher

The celeb count was high this week, with the biggest crowds of screaming fans turning up outside the Dior show for a glimpse of J-Hope from Korean pop phenomenon BTS.

Timothee Chalamet was a special guest for Loewe, with artistic director Jonathan Anderson saying he epitomises the more daring approach to menswear that is seeing the sector take off.

"Fashion has never felt more exciting," Anderson told AFP. "The landscape is changing."

Omnipresent throughout the week was RnB star Usher, who was hard to miss with his new, bright-red hairstyle.

J-Hope of BTS attends the Dior Homme Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.
J-Hope of BTS attends the Dior Homme Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.
Timothee Chalamet attends the Loewe Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.
Timothée Chalamet attends the Loewe Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.
Usher attends the AMI - Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.
Usher attends the AMI - Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.

A veteran still excites

Rick Owens has been bringing his gothic, post-apocalyptic madness to the Paris catwalk for years, but he still excites the crowd, which this week included David and Victoria Beckham.

"Rick Owens continues to impress each and every season, developing new silhouettes, proportions and fabrications all while staying true to his singular and truly compelling vision," said Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at British department store Harrods.

A model walks the runway during the Rick Owens Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men's Fashion Week.
A model walks the runway during the Rick Owens Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men's Fashion Week.

Emerging women designers

A quartet of women in their early thirties - Britain's Grace Wales Bonner and Bianca Saunders, France's Marine Serre and US award-winner Emily Bode - were among the hottest tickets.

It was the first live show in Paris for Wales Bonner, inspired by black Parisian icons, and it showed off her "sharp tailoring... and charming details for a spot-on, personal collection", said Berkowitz.

Bode, hot off a CFDA menswear designer of the year award, returned to Paris for the first time since the pandemic with a vintage collection inspired by her mother's family that transformed the stage of the Chatelet Theatre into a scene from rural America.


We live in a world where facts and fiction get blurred
In times of uncertainty you need journalism you can trust. For 14 free days, you can have access to a world of in-depth analyses, investigative journalism, top opinions and a range of features. Journalism strengthens democracy. Invest in the future today. Thereafter you will be billed R75 per month. You can cancel anytime and if you cancel within 14 days you won't be billed. 
Subscribe to News24
Editorial feedback and complaints

Contact the public editor with feedback for our journalists, complaints, queries or suggestions about articles on News24.

LEARN MORE