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24 Jul 2008

Hi Doc,
Would you perhaps know where the Derma Fix skin products can be purchased? I believe it is an imported line, and also wondered whether you have any knowledge re the products,
Answer 2,149 views
Anti-ageing expert
Anti-ageing expert

01 Jan 0001

Hi Annie, thank you for the question.

I have no personal experience with DermaFix, however, my approach to any topical product is to look at the ingredients (in particular the active ingredients) and from there one can make a decision on its effectiveness.

As DermaFix have an extensive line I go through the following product’s ingredients:

DeCeLeRate – Peptides & Phospholipids
Active ingredients: Argireline, Matrixyl Acetyl hexapeptide -3, Oligopeptide, Triglyceride lipid complex, Phospholipids.

Oligopeptide, Lipid Complex, and the Phospholipids act as humectants and barriers for the skin.

Argireline is a synthetically derived peptide used in a wide range of skin-care and makeup products, especially those claiming to have a muscle-relaxing effect similar to Botox injections. These claims typically have to do with relaxing muscle contractions when making facial expressions, thus reducing the appearance of expression lines. The company that sells acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name Argireline), Centerchem (, is based in Spain. According to their Web site, “Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release.” The truth of this claim about the effects of topical application of Argireline is based only on information from Centerchem; there is no independent published research substantiating any use of Argireline topically on skin.

Matrixyl or palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-KTTKS) is a relatively small molecule. It consists of five amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid to enhance oil solubility for the sake of better skin penetration. It is structurally related to the precursor of collagen type I (a.k.a. procollagen type I). Researchers found that when added to the culture of fibroblasts (the key skin cells), palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 stimulated the synthesis of the key constituents of the skin matrix: collagen, elastin and glucosamnoglycans. How exactly palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 did that remains unclear, although a number of theories exist.
Unfortunately, the ability to improve the productivity of skin cells in the test tube, does not always translate into an effective anti aging treatment. Less than one in ten promising test tube discoveries ever becomes an established therapy. Clinical studies of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 do exist but all of them (to my knowledge as of the day of this writing) have been conducted or sponsored by the manufacturers (Sedema and Proctor & Gamble). This does not necessarily make the studies biased, but potential conflict of interests is always a red flag. Unfortunately, this situation is typical. Early studies of patented chemicals are almost always sponsored by manufacturers. It usually takes a long time before completely independent research is conducted.

Following from the above I believe that one needs to wait for further independent and long term effect studies before an opinion can be made. Most of the remainder of DermaFix’s product line and the active ingredients have been shown to have moisturizing, barrier protection, and anti-oxidant effects.

Ultimately for all products, delivery of ingredients into the skin, is critically dependent on formulation characteristics and the strength used.
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